Love it or hate it

Love it or hate it, summer squash is prolific in the garden and abundant at the markets. Most people are familiar with the ubiquitous yellow summer crookneck, but North Central Florida has a variety of squash classified as summer squash by their thin, edible skins.

Did you know that zucchini’s traditional green can also be golden and, instead of long and thin, some are as round as a baseball? Patty-pans are a half-round shape with a crown and grow in colors ranging from white to pale green to bright golden yellow.

While the many varieties may look different, squash plants have one thing in common – they produce abundant quantities. Garrison Keillor often makes jokes about bags of extra squash being left on neighbors’ doorsteps in the middle of the night, but what else can you do with too much squash? Cook it, of course – steamed, stewed, stuffed, baked or grilled, the possibilities are endless.

My two grandmothers had two completely different ways of dealing with mass quantities of summer squash. Granny, my Mom’s mom from Georgia, made traditional Southern squash casserole – crookneck yellow squash, onions, lots of cheese, topped with a tube of Ritz crackers crushed and mixed with melted butter – lots of flavor with even more fat and calories. Try this Herbed Squash Casserole (recipe follows) instead – a tasty version that is a bit easier on the calorie bank.

My Dad’s mom, Sitto (Arabic for “grandmother”), made koosa with straight yellow squash. An apple corer or vegetable peeler was used to create a lengthwise cavity in each squash. Filled with lamb and rice, then stewed in a tomato sauce, the squash were rich and flavorful, with a fall-apart texture. Mediterranean Stuffed Squash (recipe follows) is cored like koosa, but stuffed with a flavorful lentil-rice mixture, steamed until crisp-tender and served with a Cucumber Mint Yogurt Sauce.

RECIPE FACT BOX:

Herbed Squash Casserole

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 onion, cut into thin slices

8 cups summer squash, sliced or cubed

2 tablespoons dried basil

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 cup sour cream (regular or light)

3 eggs

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

1 cup cheese, shredded

1 tablespoon butter, melted

Preparation

Heat oil in large covered pan, add onion and squash, stir to coat with oil, cover and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Stir in dried herbs, cover and cook another 5 minutes. Test squash for doneness – a fork should meet some resistance in the center of each piece. Transfer cooked squash to a prepared baking dish.

Beat eggs into sour cream and season with salt and pepper. Pour over squash, and shake pan gently to distribute evenly. Mix together bread crumbs, cheese and butter and sprinkle topping over entire casserole. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes, until topping is crunchy and edges of casserole are browned. Serve hot. Cover and refrigerate leftovers. Serves 8.

Mediterranean Stuffed Squash

Ingredients

8 straight summer squash, 5-6 inches long, at least 1 1/2 inches diameter

2 cups cooked brown rice

1 cup cooked lentils

1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped

1 tablespoon dried mint

1/4 cup feta cheese, crumbled

1/4 cup nuts (walnuts or pine nuts)

1/3 cup currants or raisins

Preparation

Cut stem-end off each clean squash. Using an apple corer or vegetable peeler, core squash lengthwise, leaving a shell of about one-half inch. Combine remaining ingredients and stuff each cored squash with as much filling as it will hold. Use your fingers to compact the rice-lentil mixture as you fill each squash. Steam filled squash over simmering water. A crisp-tender squash will feel flexible when pushed with your finger. Serve hot or at room temperature. Store covered in refrigerator. Serves 4-8.

Cucumber Mint YogurT Sauce

Ingredients

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and grated

1 1/2 cups plain yogurt (regular or lowfat)

1 tablespoon dried mint

Preparation

Combine all ingredients, mixing well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to let the flavors blend. Stir before serving. Store covered in the refrigerator.